When Famagusta was the top destination
Until 1974, the city of Varosha was one of the major tourist destinations. Celebrities mixed with sun seekers enjoyed the stunning location with its blue-green clear waters and all the exciting restaurants. Hotels of all sizes were added at an impressive rate. This was actually one of the really big destinations at the time.
Not least, Scandinavians found their way here and happily partook of the wide range of entertainment. Some simply wanted to get away from the cold north and spend a week or two under the warm sun.
But in the summer of 1974 it was all over. The Turkish invasion of Northern Cyprus testified to a completely new era. Varosha was evacuated with lightning speed and everything was left for an uncertain future. So to this day the place is completely untouched and walking here gives an eerily dystopian feeling. That time has stopped here is the least one can say…
Looking out over the hollow hotels and seeing the same inviting water that once attracted people here feels strange. Better days must come.
I find carvings in a sidewalk. They are from Danish and Swedish tourists who left behind some info to be discovered in the future. A text says RUNE o KARIN and that they were here on May 2, 1974. That was just two months before the invasion…
Nature will sooner or later win if no solution is found to the conflict. Yes, the vegetation is already so evident that the roots are making their way through the weathering concrete.
Once you are at the location
It costs nothing to visit the place but the Turkish military presence is palpable. Be prepared to have your bag searched before you are allowed in. Several places are marked with a photography ban so be careful where you point your lens. What more, the area is large so prepare for a proper walk. And if you walk really far a strip of the beach has been opened where swimming is allowed. So bring swimwear if you want to experience the inviting water from the past! The UN has taken over a hotel and you see UN marked vehicles driving around the area. Here, big politics prevails in a limited area.
How to get to Varosha on a budget
If you like to travel on a budget, one way is to take a local bus to Neirya from places like Larnaca and Aya Napia. Ask the driver to drop you off at the main street leading to the Cypriot and Turkish border post. it’s a 15 minute walk there. Show your passport in the same slot as the cars. Despite the strange situation, the people working here are relaxed and nice.
If you walk from the Turkish post it takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes to reach Varosha. Wear sturdy shoes and a sun hat. And bring water of course. The first stretch is really deserted with fences, empty houses and warning signs everywhere. Otherwise it is a fairly straight road but feel free to ask locals for directions. You will pass some shops along the way if you need to refill with water. The GPS maps on your mobile phone is great but unfortunately a lot is not correct so be a little careful if you try to find a faster way forward.
If you don’t want to walk you can get help ordering a taxi at the post (Turkish Cypriot side).
